In 1989, during his first Haute Couture show for the Fall-Winter collection, Gianfranco Ferré introduced the Arbitre suit.
This suit was made of “houndstooth” wool, a pattern usually used for men’s clothing. Following in the footsteps of Christian Dior, he reintroduced some of the so-called “men’s” motifs into the wardrobe of the Dior woman.
This suit was completed with a huge bow which defied the laws of gravity. This was made possible by the use of silk organza, a very light fabric.
“‘Exaggerated’ collars, sleeves and bows can transform a simple garment into a complete, unique and outstanding ensemble.”
This exaggerated bow and the voluminous balloon sleeves are characteristic of late 1980s fashion and of the work of Gianfranco Ferré. The exaggeration of volumes gives way to a new silhouette.